
Pysanky – Watercolor by My Sister, Nanci Yermakoff, 2000.
Countries steeped in Eastern Orthodoxy celebrate Easter with glorious painted eggs and a traditional Easter buffet feast.
The eggs (pysanky) are quite an art form. The style of egg-painting is different in each country (Russia, Ukraine, Belarus et. al.), but perhaps the most beautiful are the Ukrainian batik (wax-resist dyed) eggs.
Ukrainian egg painting is not for the faint of heart. It is a grueling process of layering paint, waxing, painting, waxing, removing the wax and then lacquering. Beginning with the lightest color, colors are layered. In the progression from light to dark, the lighter colors are maintained by a thin coat of melted wax (called “wax resist”), which is removed when coloring is complete. Traditionally the wax is removed at the end using the heat of a candle. The process is a messy one, but even the unavoidable drippings are beautiful.
Thirty years ago my sister and brother-in-law had their first egg party, in part influenced by our Belarusian ancestry. My sister, a professional artist, fearlessly launched into the ornate Ukrainian eggs rather than the less-intricate Belarusian red eggs. While not all guests were willing to attempt the Ukrainian eggs in the photo above, they happily painted eggs in their own personal styles. Thirty years hence, the party goes on with many of the original attendees still adding eggs to their respective collections.
Like the eggs and attendees, the traditional menu for the party hasn’t changed over the years. It is a Russian/Belarusian/Ukrainian menu (there is much overlap in these cuisines – as in the egg painting). My sister serves the food buffet style (a must when serving nearly 30 people in a small home), preparing everything ahead with the exception of the Kulebiaka and Pierogi, which must be assembled and baked right before guests arrive.
In my view, the highlight of the buffet is the Paskha, a dish made throughout the Eastern Orthodox countries such as Ukraine, Belarus and Russia. It is typically made during holy week and served as part of the Easter celebration.
I like to think of Paskha as an Eastern Orthodox variation on New York cheesecake. The tastes are similar, and they both use sour cream and a mild cheese, but pashka is not baked like cheesecake. The dense paskha consistency comes from a bit of stove-top cooking and then draining liquid (and concentrating the cheese) with a fine cheesecloth sieve. While it is a do-ahead dish, paskha requires significant lead time – at least 4 days before serving. Traditional paskha molds are available, but an everyday terra-cotta flower pot (with drainage hole) will easily do the trick.
Ukrainian Egg Party Buffet Menu
Baked Beef Pierogi
Kulebiaka (Salmon, Vegetables and Rice in Pastry)
Kielbasa Served with Horseradish, Sauerkraut and Mashed Potatoes
Radish and Cucumber Salad
Russian Easter Bread (Babka)
Paskha
Paskha
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Recipe By: A Global Garnish, LLC – adapted from my sister’s recipe
5 cups cottage cheese
1 7/8 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups sour cream
5 egg, yolks
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup almonds, slivered
1/2 cup raisins, golden
Directions:
1. You will need a clean, 5-inch terra-cotta flower pot and cheesecloth for this recipe. It will take about 4 days, start to finish, but very little of that time is work time.
Place the cottage cheese in the center of a piece of cheesecloth. Draw the corners of the cheesecloth together and tie. Hang the cheese cloth (in a strainer) over a bowl. Let it drain overnight (at least 8 hours) in the refrigerator. Discard the drained liquid.
2. Put the cottage cheese in a food processor and blend (or put through a sieve). Add the sugar, sour cream, egg yolks, and vanilla and process again.
Place in a large sauce pan and heat very gently, stirring constantly. As soon as the mixture begins to simmer and temperature reaches 145-150 degrees, remove from the heat.
Cool mixture quickly by placing pan or bowl in a shallow pan or placing a bowl of ice water (see culinary science notes about cooling liquids quickly).
3. Add almonds and raisins. Return the mixture to clean cheesecloth and let drain again, refrigerated overnight ( at least 10-12 hours).
4. Line the clean flower pot with clean cheesecloth.
Eliminate as many folds in the cloth as possible. Fill it will the cheese mixture.
Fold cheesecloth edges over the top, cover with a plate and place a weight on the plate (a can of food works). Place the pasta on another dish to catch drained liquid. Return to the refrigerator for 24 hours.
5. Unmold paskha on your serving platter. Garnish and serve.
6. DO-AHEAD INSTRUCTIONS: Although you need to start paskha 4 days ahead of serving time, there is little in the way of last-minute work. Simply unmold and garnish before serving. You can do this just before serving or an hour or so before (store in refrigerator until service).
To have your own Ukrainian egg party, I recommend the book by Jane Pollack: Decorating Eggs: Exquisite Designs with Wax and Dye. And you may want to start thinking about your egg design now. It takes the duration of the party just to make one, so you won’t be able to redesign halfway through. Although, anything goes, really. Eggs at our party ranged from traditional Ukrainian eggs to a University of Michigan football 🙂
Wonderful post. I love the opening water colour; just beautiful. So many good images and very original writing and ideas – to me at least!
Thanks so much. Of course, I can’t take credit for the gorgeous water color. My sister is quite talented. She also did the artwork in my blog logo…
– I first learned about amazing, intricate Ukrainian Easter eggs on Martha Stewart’s show, many years ago. I found the videos on her site!
Part 1: http://www.marthastewart.com/918620/ukrainian-easter-eggs-part-1
Part 2: http://www.marthastewart.com/918625/ukrainian-easter-eggs-part-2
When I traveled to Russia, I brought back many colors of intricately painted papier-mâché eggs. (I wonder if there is egg shell under the papier-mâché?) You can see some of them in my home page photo.
– I had seen Paskha before and looked delicious, but never knew what it was made of. Now I know, and it must be very delicious. Do you spread it on bread or eat like a dessert?
– A wonderful post! 😀 Fae.
Fae – You eat it like a dessert. It is like a cheesecake in flavor so, like a cheesecake, it is nice with some fruit, cooked or fresh.
And I must check out the videos!
Fantastic! I’d love to learn how to do these eggs. They are so beautiful! The menu sounds delicious. Thank you for sharing this tradition.
Thanks Spoon Feast. If you’d like to try and don’t want to wait for the book, Fae’s Twist and Tango left a video link in her post….
Beautiful eggs! I love the watercolour.
Thanks. And, yes, my sister is so talented. She did my blog logo watercolor as well.
What a beautiful tradition — wonderful to see these things carried on from generation to generation.
Ha ha. My sister and I are old enough that 30 years is one generation 🙂 Or did you mean the Belarusian family influence? 🙂
We will assume you and your sister were not the first Belarusian generation to take up the activity 🙂
Beautiful site – logo, stories and photographs! What fun to see our spring celebration in print for others to share as well. Looking forward to your next post!
Thanks so much Joy. Great to see you at the egg party!
In an age when relationships are measured in nanoseconds, seemingly, to read that you’ve been gathering for 30 years and decorating eggs in a centuries old style is truly something special. There is a lot of talent in that water color and the eggs are even more beautiful knowing that they were 30 years in the making. Thank you for allowing us to join the party. I hope yours is a special Easter.
Thanks John. Yes, I love traditions that tie in with friends/family, and this is a really fun and unusual one – thanks to my sister’s creativity. I must say that it was quite scary moving those eggs around so I could photograph them. Imagine dropping the basket!
What a terrific post. Thank you so much for sharing your family’s wonderful traditions with us.
Thanks so much Karen. It helped to have my sister’s beautiful artwork up front and center 🙂
Your sister’s watercolour is absolutely beautiful. I paint myself, but I’ve never managed to maintain the control of both colour saturation and line that you can see in her painting. Definitely a great way to start a fascinating post! As an English/Australian girl, I grew up painting eggs with food dye. Very simplistic and in no way as beautiful as these eggs! Thanks for sharing this beautiful tradition in a tangible way with us xx
I come from a family of artists (I have not inherited the gene – spent my career as a scientist). While I am not an artist, I’ve been surrounded by enough art to appreciate it. My sister astounds me. We love her work, which is fortunate, because what else would we do with the paintings she gives us? 🙂 Seriously, most of the work she does is all about color – rather than composition. So, it is very astute that you noticed the color aspect of her work. If you’d like to see more, there is a link in the text of the post.
And thank you for your nice comments.
Wish I was there: the food and the eggs! 🙂
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Hi there!
I’m nominating you for the super sweet blogger award. You can do what you’d like with this award – personally, I’m only nominating one blog per award, and you’re it! I really do love your blog, I love that you went to culinary school at 50, and I’m glad you’re retired! (me, too!)
so here is the link: http://chefmimiblog.com/2013/04/05/awards/
Keep blogging! mimi
Chef Mimi – You are truly special. I am so honored to be the solo selection for this award and the recipient of your kind thoughts. Such great inspiration! 🙂
I love your blog as well – so much culinary substance and unique recipes.
And yes, we are kindred souls in many respects – a different generation from the world of young bloggers….
Thank you for sharing your Easter traditions! So interesting! Here in Finland we also enjoy Paskha. It has spread from the Orthodox tradition that is also present in Finland. In Finnish we call it Pasha.
I shouldn’t be surprised that these traditions are also part of life in Finland – so close to Russia. I also see a part of my Scandinavian heritage in Finland’s food and culture.
Loved your sister’s picture – was drawn to that watercolour straight away
Thanks. She’ll be happy to see your comment.